6x6Talk Forum
General Category => MAX: Talk pertaining to Max ATV => Topic started by: Dw89xj on August 31, 2017, 03:20:04 AM
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Finally migrated over here to check things out and gain some knowledge, and report my progress.
I bought a 76 max ii about a month and a half or so ago, it was supposed to be an 84. Basically it went from a simple 4 stroke swap and bearing and chain replacement to a full on resto/mod project. For 600 bucks + the trip to Ohio and back, I got some alright parts, it needs a lot but alot is good too.
The bad news is -> rust, you really don't know until you pull the frame how bad it might be, I'm replacing both outside frame rails, I had only anticipated a patch at the front of the right side, no cigar. The lower tub would be really nice, if some nice fellow or lady hadn't cut a huge hole for an access for the clutch, then patched it with black jack and what seems like a pice of mudflap and about 80 or so rivets. I can fix it but I'm certain whatever they accomplished could've been done faster and easier unbolting the 440 jlo and just moving it around. The upper was cut like a lil truck and makeshift bed, the welds could use some grinding was definitely flux but seems burnt in okay and fairly sturdy, I'm using it as a tool stand while I'm working on the machine right now. The worst thing of the bad is my wheelchair broke down and put me about a month behind since I don't have a backup.
The good->. All six axles are straight and only need minimal conditioning to be as good as new. Sprockets are all good, except I need to buy the repair bushings for the egged out holes in 5 of the axle sprocket tubes, still not as bad as I expected. Jlo 440 ran when I sold it and trans seems okay. Bearings were easy to remove with the air chisel and a couple different tips depending how I worked at it. It's got a cool looking cage added to the ROP. So basically I guess I got a set of decent wheels, straight axles and a working driveline for 600 bucks.
I'm having frame rails bent at a local fabricator and picking them up Monday. Have a brand new duromax 18hp waiting for it, a fellow 6x6er over at 6x6world helped me out with a pretty nice 94c clutch and green spring for my driven. Fuse panel and plenty of multi colored wire to build a new wiring harness. All new bearings, bushings, and chains, I also bought chain rollers so I can fab new tensioners, out of 4 one was intact. Also a volt meter and some green cool guy atv grips. Some other odds and ends.
I still need to order my header kit and intake kit, pulse pump and adapter and then important stuff is all bought except I'm sure I'll need some bolts which I plan on hitting up surplus city since they sell by the lb. Cheaper than Lowe's or tsc.
I'm stoked to get my frame rails so I can get this baby back together.
Any thoughts on using the bottom of a black bucket and plastic welding it to patch the half a$$ed patch or should I just buy a sheet of hdpe since eventually I'm making a full one piece skid plate, I was just hoping to avoid that cost til my first set of chains wears out so I can do the cages and all at once, my wife isn't real impressed how much money I through at this thing in a short period of time. Also for pulse pumps, are the Amazon and eBay 8-14 dollar ones okay or are the $40 mikunis that much better? I'm planning carrying a backup either way and adding a primer ball up near the tank under the dash somewhere.
I have a bunch of other stuff I'm going to do as money permits, custom aluminum bed to follow the factory body lines to a point, the back is going to be flat with a tail gate, looking at it from the back it will angle in at the top like factory plastic though. Hdpe hard top, or make an old tracker soft top I have work if the size is close enough that it won't be ridiculous. Fold down or maybe up windshield. Front rack. Body band. Winch. Hdpe doors, not sure on how I'm doing those windows yet. LEDs everywhere, I'm talking E.T. phone home lights everywhere. Green though except red tail and white headlights/ lightbars. Bilge pump. Pontoons. Cb and stereo. Power ports. Gun rack or scabbard. Horn, for safety, could save my ass if I have a mechanical failure while hunting. Tracks eventually, I'd like to build my own but might just buy used for my first set, cross that bridge when I get there. Pictures to come, lost everything when I had to reset my tablet. If you've read this far feel free to chime in with ideas or opinions, or experiences. Apologies for the bad grammar, and thanks for having me in this community.
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Happy to have you here is this nice place where you are welcomed!
Sounds like big plans, let us know if you need and set up help, the clutch
set up is very important, kind of makes me wonder just what clutch you bought as
they are not all the same? ::)
Jeff Bar
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I know it's a comet 94c and has 3 pucks, it has slots for more though, 1" bore. I bought it off member toys4me, he said he had it on a similar setup and worked good, I'm sure eventually I'll want to upgrade the driven, but I definitely will need some guidance on setting up the driven clutch when I switch springs.
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nopics
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Hay Buddy Good to see you here ! ;)
I must say That's a good clutch. A Bad frame and a Nasty patch job !!
I am working on getting a Max II that may be a good parts machine. I will let you know if it comes to be.
I didn't want you to think I left you on your build it is just when thy Banned me and My Friends out of the blue I had no way to get ahold of you to try and help.
But here you are and lets get this puppy up on 6 ! banana
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Wow, some of that Max is in rough shape but better days are ahead. Glad to see it is being given a new life instead of being sent to the junk yard. :)
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Hay Buddy Good to see you here ! ;)
I must say That's a good clutch. A Bad frame and a Nasty patch job !!
I am working on getting a Max II that may be a good parts machine. I will let you know if it comes to be.
I didn't want you to think I left you on your build it is just when thy Banned me and My Friends out of the blue I had no way to get ahold of you to try and help.
But here you are and lets get this puppy up on 6 ! banana
No worries brother, it didn't take long to figure out what happened, one of the admins put a post for who was banned needless to say not alot of action over there without you guys, still some good guys over there but was a bit disappointed the guys who were feeding me the most knowledge got the boot. The hard part is done now from what I can tell, grind a few welds and should be pretty straight forward. But yeah man I'm always prowling for parts if nothing else to at least have spares. I might try and source a different upper instead of buying aluminum, we will see when I'm that far along, for now I just wanna get it solid and rolling. The only thing I can come up with why it rusted the way it did was leaking battery and probably sat with water in during that. The whole right side is rough, just the middle on the left which is another reason I'm assuming leaking battery, the worst of it is that area, funny thing is it's only the outside frame rails and a few small areas around the battery box. Live and learn, at least now I know what to look for on my next victim.
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Wow, some of that Max is in rough shape but better days are ahead. Glad to see it is being given a new life instead of being sent to the junk yard. :)
I agree, I guess I got my money's worth, I'm just glad it's salvageable, didn't wanna be in this deep but I'm here now so nothing but progress from here on out, at least I'm on the down hill side of it now.
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One part at a time like Johnny did ! :)
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If it helps DW89xj, everything can be fixed. :) Getting that frame redone is most important. It's...not good. Just make sure everything is nice & square. VERY important. Everything is a chain reaction. You have the opportunity to be a "perfectionist" now. And by doing so your rebuild will go so much easier & the result will be so rewarding. Even your wife will be impressed. ;D Keep the good stuff. Not sure? Toss it. You have the opportunity with a teardown to fix it right so you don't have to tear it down again at some point, because you cut a corner. And Don't be in a hurry. You can do this. It's going to be great. ;D
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One part at a time like Johnny did ! :)
One of my favorite songs. 8)
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If it helps DW89xj, everything can be fixed. :) Getting that frame redone is most important. It's...not good. Just make sure everything is nice & square. VERY important. Everything is a chain reaction. You have the opportunity to be a "perfectionist" now. And by doing so your rebuild will go so much easier & the result will be so rewarding. Even your wife will be impressed. ;D Keep the good stuff. Not sure? Toss it. You have the opportunity with a teardown to fix it right so you don't have to tear it down again at some point, because you cut a corner. And Don't be in a hurry. You can do this. It's going to be great. ;D
I like this kind of stuff, I used to love building jeeps and trucks. I'm going to go ahead and add some gussets and bracing to help. Keeping it square should be pretty easy as long as my buddies welding table is nice and flat, but I'll be checking and checking and checking til I know the axles line up square. These old machines are pretty simple and cool. I already ant another one and this one is just getting on to the side where stuff goes back together. I'm hoping it goes together as smooth as it came apart.
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Hang in there. Shame you aren't closer, I have an upper half hanging on my garage wall.
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Hang in there. Shame you aren't closer, I have an upper half hanging on my garage wall.
Did you have it posted on 6x6world classifieds? I might have seen it. There doesn't seem to be much for max ii parts near me. A couple whole machines but I hate to ask anyone to part out complete machines. Luckily between my friends and myself we are okay at fabbing our own stuff. I like this sort of stuff though, by the time I'm done I would've been able to buy a running machine but mine will be close to new with everything that's being replaced repaired or rebuilt. I'm excited to run it. I have alot of plans for different attachments to do work around here and my campsite.
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Had it posted there a few months back, before we all got the boot
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Still doin time
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Well I'm back, life comes at ya sometimes and I was at a standstill. Not much progress since I last posted, got my air filter and adapter and also my header kit. Finally bought a torch over the weekend so I can start this plastic welding. Still haven't welded my frame but should be tackeling that over the next 2 or 3 weeks depending on my buddies work schedule, and whether or not I get this job I applied for, you wouldn't believe how hard it is to find work in a field I know something about as a paraplegic, but I can understand I am a bit of a liability. Plus I don't have a driver's license and neither of my Vans are equipped for handicap driver. After this frame is welded it should go fast. I'm thinking of just using black plastic barrels as material for patches and welding, they are plenty thick and I think wouldn't be too hateful for forming skid plates front and rear, after thinking it over I don't think I really need a one piece skid plate and I don't want to pay the shipping on a sheet of hdpe, I think if the front and back corners are reinforced that should make my tub last fine. I have to buy plugs for the tub, I thought about just patching them shut since I'm planning on a bilge pump but those holes sure will make it nice when I wash the tub out now and then. Is there something better than just boat plugs? It seems that they would catch stuff I might be trying to go over, rocks, logs, branches, dirt mounds, anything really. I just don't want to rip the tub, I was going to use them from inside out so if one just gets pushed out I can put it back in. What about the little plastic push plugs that would be more or less flush? Has anyone tried gluing them in with silicone then just cleaning it up and regluing it when it's clean up time? I won't be swimming this machine that often but when I do it will probably be for long periods. Which mufflers are you guys finding to be best/quietest? I'll be using this hunting although I don't know how much it matters it seems like deer around here are curious about the noise ATVs and saws make. I saw Vegas carts sells a muffler for golf carts that's supposed to be quiet without killing power, it looks like it could be easily adapted to work on a max ii. I'm planning running my exhaust out through the upper when it's all said and done, I don't need to worry about burning myself down from weeds and high grass and such getting bunched up in there in the summer.
Anyone tried building thier own tracks? I can't see spending more on an accessory than I have in the whole rest of the machine including engine mods and all the other unnecessary things I'm already adding. This local welding shop has been giving me pretty good prices on stuff and his work is great, I was thinking of having him make me up cross pieces like the escargo tracks and just using belting they sell at tractor supply, the escargo seems like the bee's knees since the metal can slide for steering but bite like a piece of equipment going straight, just not sold on them totally, if I make tracks from old snowmobile track I know I'd have plenty of flotation but if Im not running in the snow it seems like a lot of extra stress since they're rubber and the tread pattern will be gripping instead of sliding during steering idk maybe I'm thinking too deep into something that isn't an issue yet. I just don't want to up on shits Creek with a turd for a paddle on the occasion I'm out alone, I like being ready for whatever comes my way. But who knows I may luck into a set of tracks for a good or great price and they will be all I need. Just trying to get some ideas from the pros, I'm pretty set on building my own though because I'm pretty tight, if I can build it for cheaper and it be just as good or better then that's the route I go for, besides I enjoy this stuff so I never figured in time as money on any of this tinkering stuff I've ever done.
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Sheesh one setback after another, hopefully, with any luck I will finally be welding the new outer rails on my frame. Then I can start reassembly. A trick I used to clean everything up was easy off oven cleaner, I have not tried this on the tub so not sure if it would have any adverse effects on the plastic, but on my frame, axles, sprockets, and trans it made short work of degreasing spray, let set for ten minutes or so and rinse. Also if it sits too long on the aluminum it will oxidize and make it chalky so be sure to rinse those parts extra well.
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Awesome! Keep on keeping on. I used gasoline to rinse and degrease all my parts. Worked like a charm. banana
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How fast and how much should I expect my chains to stretch initially? All brand new chain from Buffalo bearing. Not sure on brand but it says China on the box. I asked for good stuff and explained what I'm using it for and the guy said other 6x6ers use it and buy it with no complaints yet.
I'm considering having 3/4" rod pressed into my hollow axles and plug welded, have many of you done this? Was it worth the effort?
I'm also going to have the local welding shop bending me another set of frame rails to go with my bearing extensions to tie all axles together, even if I don't run tracks I think it will help because even though I'm not planning on constantly being hard on this machine I have a tendency to get a little rowdy now and then.
I would like to have a plow and other attachments also, would it pose a problem to have my mounting tabs on the outer frame rails/extensions or should I just have a plate made to go along the tub and actual frame, or will the extensions be able to handle this? I plan on adapting a 50" or so mower deck to attach to these same points for mowing my campsite. Basically just 4 big castor's and a cradle I can adjust to whatever height then raise and lower with a winch, possibly a pull behind unit but I think front mount will be easier to control and be more precise with my mowing.
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Chain stretch
I bought my O-Ring chain from MFG supply and after 37-40 hrs no stretch yet. my chain has a tensile strength of 9600 lbs if that means anything. very happy with it, and I am hard on my machine
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Removal of the bronze bushings was fairly simple, I used an old 1/4" wood chisel and chipped them away, I think it would have been easier if I had the right end to use my slide hammer but oh well, better luck next time lol. Now for degreasing and paint prep on my axles. Woohoo banana dance
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Found another issue I need to fix, the seal for my input shaft in my t20 is leaking, it was not noticeable while the tranny was covered in crud, after degreasing it sure is noticeble. How hard is this to fix? Will I need to split the t20 to do it? Thank you guys and gals for all the help, it is very much appreciated.
I also did some useless waste of time work polishing my primary clutch cover, but it sure is purty whistling
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How bad is the leak ? It may be a small seeping from sitting ??
If you want to put new output seals in Yes you need to split the tranny. If your not up to it let me know and I can go through it for you at the shop.
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How bad is the leak ? It may be a small seeping from sitting ??
If you want to put new output seals in Yes you need to split the tranny. If your not up to it let me know and I can go through it for you at the shop.
I didn't notice it til after I cleaned it and it sat leaning to that side. It's enough it had a small puddle maybe soup can diameter since I cleaned it. I'm not sure how much it might leak after it's ran and fluid is warmed up though, hate to clean it all up and have it all nice and new to hog it up bc I didn't replace a seal. I'll already be making a mess with chain lube lol. I'm afraid to split it though bc I know how I am, that seal will end up being new bands and the whole shebang. Even though I'm on a tight budget I'm not afraid to spend extra to make it right. I don't need any breakdowns because I cut corners and got lazy, it's alot harder to crawl out of the woods than walk LMAO rofl
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iagree
Got to split the case to fix it
Good time to inspect everything:
dance dance
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iagree
Got to split the case to fix it
Good time to inspect everything:
dance dance
That's the plus to it I'll know exactly what I'm working with, the t20 is the only thing I haven't dug into since it seems to work both sides forward and reverse on the bench. My wife won't be very thrilled about the extra money but it's all part of restoring a machine. Heck even the brand new chonda is apart, port and polish head and going to add billet rod and stiffer valve springs, might even add a cam in the mix, cross that bridge when I get there.
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A couple pictures of my rainy day progress.
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Nothing major on the head just smoothed the inside radius and knocked the roughness off and gasket matched it all. I raised the exhaust ceiling very little but nothing crazy. Bulleted the valve guides to help smooth out the flow. All with a Dremel, it would have gone much faster with a die grinder and some nice tips but I work with what I have even though it takes quite a bit longer.
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Chain rollers for my RR tensioner copies.
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Not positive on how I wanna tackle this. My plastic welding is not up to par, I can fill holes but this is a little out of hand. Maybe better off sourcing a better tub? The black jack and mud flap isn't doing it for me. If I knew I could keep myself from trying it in water I'd let it ride but my campsite is right along the creek and I know I'm going to try and cross it and be playing in it.
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The trick with welding plastic is cutting the patch to the exact size with very little gap, similar to repairing a crack. Also obtain a low wattage soldering iron or a hot tip plastic welder (hot air welder is different) the object is to stab the weld tip into the crack at 90 deg to the seam at overlapping intervals with a little practice it will look like fish scales. try to go 80 pct through the plastic. best to do both the inside and outside. if you want to smooth it out use a hot air welder or a wide flat tip on the iron. if the plastic smokes the welder is too hot. Sorry i dont have any photos but there are examples on youtube.
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Zylene and PL 5200 marine adhesive
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It would be a little crude but you could essentially get two square pieces of polyurethane that cover the hole from each end and bolt them together on either side, putting marine sealant between and around each of them to seal the tub. Like I said, won’t look awesome but it would get the job done with no welding. popcorn popcorn
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My badass son in law helping me on the first rail.
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New lesson today, don't paint your axles before they're installed. Had to do some rework sanding them back down to get the bearing to slide on, trashed a bearing in the process. Oh well better luck next time
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I forgot to take pictures but my engine is back together. Vegas carts billet 4.510 rod, 35lb valve springs, champion shaft rockers, 1/4" chromemoly pushrods, and Vegas carts torque cam. Governor removed and low oil shut off removed and the holes tapped and plugged. Header and cone airfilter, now I need to source some jet drills to get it dialed in after it's broke in and installed.
Does anyone know if tractor supply or Napa happen to have the tripple sealed bearings? I ordered these last ones from Buffalo bearing but I'm hoping to have everything sitting in the tub before the end of the weekend instead of waiting on parts. Then I can move on to wiring.
I have a gm alternator from one of my old trucks, does anyone know of an alternative to the Vegas carts pulley ($74.95 ouch) so I can use the alternator to keep my battery charged? It's not a big deal now but this winter I'm going to want that extra juice for lights and a winch. Also for the meantime, how do I wire up the 3 amp charge circuit to charge the battery? It's only one wire, I'm wondering if I can hook it straight to the battery or do I need a regulator of sorts? For the summer as long as I can keep the battery charged to start I'll be fine. I have a week long trip in northern Pennsylvania next month and am hoping to take my Max so I'm not just stuck at the cabin. I'm using a car battery, I'm sure I can get lots of starts out of it but better safe than sorry.
And lastly for now, axles, I have the old hollow ones with bronze bushings, my middle axles have the sprocket bolt holes near the center while either end is about 4 and a half inches from the bushing end. I was going to have rods pressed in but it's 3 bolt axles with 5 lug adapters. I was looking on 6x6 parts and noticed that the upgraded solid with bushing axles only have the holes located for the axles on either end. Are the middle axles not an issue? I figured I will upgrade as I break/bend axles, because I can't hash out 145 a piece all at once at this point in time, but what about upgrades for the middle axles? Or do I have some kind of Frankenstein machine? ***Edit front axles not the middle, the middle and rear are in line the front axle holes are more toward the middle.
Thank you all for the insight and help.
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Hey DW, glad you are making progress on your rebuild. Regarding your question of how to hook up the charging wire, the answer depends on the engine type and charging configuration. Briggs and Stratton has a number of different configurations. For what its worth, I have attached (I think, if I can figure out how) a publication that will help identify the charging system of a Briggs engine. If yours is not a Briggs, then disregard this useless message!!
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DW. In reference to your charging question. I assume you have a Briggs with a 3 amp stator. One wire. You can hook it to the battery side of the starter solenoid and it will charge the battery. If you give me your model, type, and code off the engine I can give you stator alternatives that may work better than trying to adapt a GM alternator. Depending on your flywheel magnets you may be able to put up to a 14 amp regulated stator on it.
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My apologies, it is a duromax 18hp Honda knockoff. Model 192fe
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My machine was originally two stroke, so it has a yellow spring in the driven clutch, I have a green one to put in, how much do I clock it? Or is it a trial and error deal? As always thank you.
EDIT*** I might be in the market for another driven clutch, this one has a couple cracks and is oblonged like someone pryed on it or beat on it.
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I made a make shift clutch compressor from some 3/8" all thread a couple fender washers a pice of bent up flat bar and a couple nuts. I put the green spring in and clocked it 1/3 ofa turn. I hope this is pretty close to being right. dance
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The tractor supply bearings are not a triple sealed design, so this backup bearing is going on a front axle until it can be replaced with the right bearing. I checked every package and none said r3 but im getting pressed for time before we go on our trip up north so this will at least get me on the trails and around camp.
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Some shots of my chain tensioners and the transmission in. Had to pull the transmission to shim the left jackshaft so it lined up right with the sprocket again. I guess everything was adjusted to it being bent up and rusted out. Oh well a new start for this old machine, I can hardly wait to test it out.
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Nice work, glad it it coming together for you.
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Nice work, glad it it coming together for you.
Thank you, it's my first 6x6, besides this my only experience is an old fiberglass 6x6 lower we used to use at a hill we sled on when we were kids.
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Motor mount done and frame is in tub. If the rain gives me a break maybe I can get the axkes and chains on before the end of the weekend. Hoping I don't have to pull the engine to do the left rear axle, I must've put it on and off 20 times getting the belt lined up and making sure it was sitting how I liked. I wish I could've been flatter to the frame but now I have plenty of adjustability.
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Three axles in, gonna have to modify chain tensioners. It's coming togerher banana dance banana dance banana O0
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Well good and bad news, engine sounded great while I was breaking in the cam this morning. Bad news, the compression must be a bit high and my drive clutch spring must be too weak. Broke the starter off the block so now that will need welded and reinforced. The 94c clutch spit all but one pucks out and it is wedged in the clutch holding it so the belt is in high gear I guess it would be? The secondary clutch seemed to work fine until this happened. I'm sure I'll have more than enough power but now I need to source a clutch or parts for this one. I don't know whether to be mad that it's already broken and doesn't even have the tires on yet or be happy that my first go round it's very healthy. Oh well back to the drawing board. whistling
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Should have my block fixed and beefed up this week. My buddy Mervin of CV welding said he thinks he can get me fixed up.
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Aftermath
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Well we won't be making the trip this weekend. So the max will just have to get tested out around here. More parts coming so it will be mostly "done" for the time being.
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Picking my engine up from the welding shop in the morning. Finish up locking in my bearings and install chains and tighten sprockets and with a little luck should be ready to start testing. I need to order a couple weather pack electric plugs and the wiring will be done, for now I'm just going to leave about a foot of extra wire and zip tie it all out of the way. Pretty excited to try this alternator setup since my pulley came in the mail. It's a pretty nice piece from Vegas carts but I think on the next one I might just have my buddy turn one in his spare time at work. It was a little pricey but I think will be worth it in the long run. I would buy it again if I have too. I'm stoked to start testing and then move on to building and installing my accessories. I have plans for a front mounted mower deck and plow made from a section of 24" drain pipe I acquired from the leftovers pile at work. I think with a decent cutting edge and maybe a piece of angle to help support it it should make a fairly sturdy and light snow plow. Time will tell for now I'm just stoked about finally after about a year or so getting this baby back together. Thanks everyone who gave support and help along the way.
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Down to the details. It's been a long road. Wiring, add a link to one jackshaft, is it okay to have two master links on one chain or should I just cut a new piece?
Eventually will be swapping bodies but for now this will get me running or qnd at least get the bugs worked out.
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You're making great progress, looking good. Won't be too long and you will be enjoying the fruits of your labor. banana banana banana
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is that a UNI filter your using?
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is that a UNI filter your using?
No it's a knock off from one of the go kart sites. It seems decent though, except I pinched it a little.
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You're making great progress, looking good. Won't be too long and you will be enjoying the fruits of your labor. banana banana banana
I'm sure I'll find the weak points lol
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make sure you use good air filter oil on it. i use the UNI air filter oil . real sticky
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make sure you use good air filter oil on it. i use the UNI air filter oil . real sticky
Thanks for the heads up I'll look for that kind or order some, I know I can get the k&n stuff local but I also never bought much air filter oil either.
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Well I guess it's a good day to lay out the tracker soft top I'm hoping to use for a top for my Max ii, and let the rain wash some of the dust and bugs off from being stored. It sure looks like it's going to be an alright fit, I guess we will see after I start cutting and bending brackets and bows and making tabs for it to attach to. I'm going to try and make it in a fashion that wI'll allow it to be used on regular body max it's without too much extra work. When I get to making doors I think I'm just going to make a wire frame like Jeep soft doors and cover them. One chain link, a short v belt for my alternator, a little more wiring and mount a gas tank and she's ready for test driving. Is it okay to use two master links in a jackshsft #50 chain or will that make a weak spot? I need one link added and broke my chain breaker but have a couple single links. I can hardly wait to make it to some events and meet some of you in person.
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did you buy a new CARB by engine serial #
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did you buy a new CARB by engine serial #
No it's still the duromax carb that came on it, I bought a set of jet drills to dial it in, if I don't like it or it doesn't act right I'll most likely go with a keihin or mikuni and see how I like that.
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Man I'd really like to cut corners just to get riding but thankfully I didn't get my new throttle cable yet and picked up the wrong belt for my alternator, 30 inch is too short I can't get the adjuster bolt back in and it's tight up against the top plate. Since I have these two main things holding me till this weekend I have all week to nit pick everything else and make sure it's all tightened down and is correct. I can't thank you all enough as well as a couple folks on the other site, I must've read every max post on both sites at least two or three times trying to educate myself, hopefully I enjoy the ride as much as the build.