Author Topic: ford F150 302  (Read 2110 times)

Offline garretttpe

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Sr. 6x6'er
  • ****
  • Posts: 449
  • Country: us
  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: ford F150 302
« Reply #8 on: November 11, 2017, 07:02:10 AM »
Thanks wedge.

when I built my vette i used Summit and had good results, the body has serious surface rust but nothing going through. overall it is in ok shape, It just has not been started in over 7 years.. the carb is a "remanufactured" one from Autozon so we all know how that goes.

I will tell them to go to Jeggs or summit. It is the kids 1st vehicle and it is more for him to learn how to work on  then to make it a daily driver. If he gets it going goos with a "little $$" then that is a bonus.

ttyl

Offline wedge

  • Trade Count: (2)
  • Master 6x6'er
  • *****
  • Posts: 1640
  • Country: us
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Run it like a Big Block !
Re: ford F150 302
« Reply #7 on: November 10, 2017, 07:11:26 PM »
Float is stuck. Sounds like the carb is not real good to start with ?
Just how many miles is on this thing and is it worth putting the money into ??
If your going New then go to Jeg's or Summet and get a Carb,Intake combo set up. You get all you need for one money. A Small 4  barrel is all you need like a 600 cfm Vacuum secondary . or a complete eddie set up. My choice for stock street . Just remember a small block ford dose NOT like a lot of CFM !!
If there is a Junk yard around look there for a good used set up also. Little money and he will see how it comes apart !!
3= Amphicat. 1= StarCraft. 1= Max 2= Attex  And Counting

Offline garretttpe

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Sr. 6x6'er
  • ****
  • Posts: 449
  • Country: us
  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: ford F150 302
« Reply #6 on: November 10, 2017, 06:47:05 PM »
Hi Guys
I removed the brake booster line and capped everything off no difference. now all of a sudden when the engine warmed up fuel started coming out of the 2 vertical ports on the front of the carb and of course the RPM started to go up. I shut down the engine and fuel shout out of the venturi area in a huge mist, and started to sputter then died......

what could be wrong with the carb now????.

it sucks that my nephew will prob have to buy a new intake and carb....if he does can you guys tell me exactly what would be needed.
1983 F150 with a old 302,  what would be a good Intake and carb combo? and will any spacers be needed for the carb. I will be gone and he has very little experience but wants to learn ho to work on cars and my brother is a computer guy.. If I can give him directions on exactly what to get then he is capable od doing the work.

thanks so much for advice
Larry

Offline wedge

  • Trade Count: (2)
  • Master 6x6'er
  • *****
  • Posts: 1640
  • Country: us
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Run it like a Big Block !
Re: ford F150 302
« Reply #5 on: November 10, 2017, 05:00:10 PM »
Problem is the intake has a Hole for the exhaust to come up into the egr. So you would need to drive some Brass rod into the hole or ?
Something to block it off. No Spacer will Last if you don't !
That's why I said if you can replace the intake to do it.
By the screw adjustment you said I would say you DO have a Vac leak ! !
As WFO said you should check you brake booster also as thy go bad from sitting also.
3= Amphicat. 1= StarCraft. 1= Max 2= Attex  And Counting

Offline WFO

  • Trade Count: (1)
  • Master 6x6'er
  • *****
  • Posts: 611
  • Country: us
  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: ford F150 302
« Reply #4 on: November 09, 2017, 08:46:41 PM »
pinch off the brake booster and see how it runs, pinch it good
"94" MAX IV SPRINGER & ULTIMATE BEARINGS
BE JUDGED BY YOUR CHARACTER

Offline garretttpe

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Sr. 6x6'er
  • ****
  • Posts: 449
  • Country: us
  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: ford F150 302
« Reply #3 on: November 09, 2017, 08:18:49 PM »
Hi Wedge
that gasket is a NEW ONE from autozone, cheap one not a felpro. when I pulled the carb and EGR plate off the gasket was toast for sure, there was some surface corossion on the intake which I cleaned up with some 220 paper, my brother does not have much stuff to work on cars.

I adjusted the 2 screws like you said but the weird thing is that with the drivers side screw all the way in it will not stall. It actually does not make much difference between all the way in and 2-3 turns out with both screws. I will work on stopping the vacuum leak I still have on the EGR Plate.

The EGR valve is plated off. After reading your response it appears I still have a vacuum leak which I need to fix.
I suspect I have a cracked EGR spacer plate, (between the intake and carb) what can I buy to replace the spacer with out having the EGR?

Thanks
« Last Edit: November 09, 2017, 08:36:27 PM by garretttpe »

Offline wedge

  • Trade Count: (2)
  • Master 6x6'er
  • *****
  • Posts: 1640
  • Country: us
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Run it like a Big Block !
Re: ford F150 302
« Reply #2 on: November 09, 2017, 06:10:16 PM »
Best thing to do is Replace the intake and carb as a set. The carb is Not your issue as with a little adjustment it will run good.
The EGR plate needs a New Gasket between the plate and intake as it is Burned through. You need to clean both real good and put a Fel pro gasget on it. To Adjust the carb there are 2 screws under the front. You get the engine warm and turn the Left one ( Drivers side) in till it wants to stall then back out Slowly till the engine reaches a Smooth higher RPM
Then do the Right one ( Pass side) the same. THEN go back and do the other one again.
You Don't need to run the EGR valve just in hook it. But that plate need to be sealed !
3= Amphicat. 1= StarCraft. 1= Max 2= Attex  And Counting

Offline garretttpe

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Sr. 6x6'er
  • ****
  • Posts: 449
  • Country: us
  • Karma: +0/-0
ford F150 302
« Reply #1 on: November 09, 2017, 12:14:18 PM »
Hi Guys
I am home now and decided to visit my family in Virginia I haven't seen in 15 years, my 16 year old nephew bought a 1983 F150 with a 302 in it, he is trying to learn how to work on stuff and my twin brother is basically clueless,(he is a computer guy). here are the issues.
1. the truck has not seen the road in many many years.
2. my nephew installed a NEW motorcraft carb and hooked all vacuum lines up. did not change EGR spacer plate gasket.
3. would only start with starting fluid and then would barely stay running, had to feather gas pedal pad and would still barely run
4. once put in reverse or drive would stall immediately.

What I have done the

1. disconnect all vacuum lines except vacuum advance, pcv valve, vacuum line to tranny, and EGR plate to carb at the front.
2. new cap, rotor, plugs., old ones lite me up bad when I touched them.
3. adjusted both fuel/air screws and main idle screw.
4. removed the "extra plastic spacer" that was installed that is for a aluminum intake, lots of cracks on it. this has a cast intake so only the EGR plate is required
5. new gasket from intake to EGR spacer plate, and EGR spacer plate to carb.
6. EGR valve is plated off on the spacer plate.

results
1. engine starts easy.
2. after warming up for a couple of minutes it will now idle on its own but has a slight surge to it.
3. will go in gear and stay running on its own although it will surge while in reverse and going forward and the engine will bog down when I try to drive it so I have to feather the gas to keep it going.
4. when I spay starting fluid onto the EGR spacer plate behind the carb the RPM rev's up, ( i am suspecting a cracked EGR spacer plate to carb).
5. it seems like I still have a vacuum leak that is effecting the carb idle and tranny

What i would like to do is remove the Vacuum carb and go with a generic 2 or 4 barrel carb. It seems like this one is very sensitive to vacuum leaks. what would be needed to completely remove this carb or keep it and go with a pre smog era system? and will the tranny still work if it has the vacuum lockup convertor?

I am leaving Virginia Saturday and would like to give my nephew some suggestions. It is a nice beater truck and I hope to get it going for him so he can drive it once he gets his license.

thanks for any help.
Larry