Max IV T20 trans help....

[WFO]

May I ask what T bolt your talking about ?
Sorry I am Lost 

he's probably talking about the rear tensioner bolt assy for the drive chains

[garretttpe]

Split Shift
If you try to shift them at the same time it can still be difficult, it would be the same as with out it., I have also thought of a servo but you have to make sure the pressure is not to much as you could possible break the pin in the shifter. maybe put a switch on each end of the sifter to show when in FWD and REV with LED lights on the dash....

as far as servos go I was thinking, I can use a fish scale to see what force I need to put my T20 in FWD or REV gear in multiple situations ADD 10 perecent to the highest reading and get a servo for that range.. pretty easy.. I might have to look into that now.
push button T20 shifter... I like it

[ascaw]

Can you post a picture of the T bolt?

[wedge]

May I ask what T bolt your talking about ?
Sorry I am Lost 

[mrpush]

Good tips, thanks everybody.

Ok so with a split shift, if you try to shift them at the same time would you still see the gear mesh problem?

Ultimately, I want to put some servos in there and have a "Dial o Shift" control for true zero turn in the max.  But thats another project.  I just want to get my feet wet with it first.

For the primary chain tensioner T bolt, it broke off at the "t" so it can't be fixed with just a bolt.  I could try to weld it but you know how that goes.  It will end up breaking again and ill have to tear back down.  And heat on a tempered bolt will weaken it further. 

I cant find that T bolt anywhere???  Does anyone know of some Jerry Rig type deal to get this fixed maybe with some preexisting part off of something else?

Thanks

MP

[tman52748]

Damn!  Just ordered, could have saved myself $106 bucks!  Well, can’t hurt I guess

[garretttpe]

I have the SPLIT shift and I do not believe the EZ shift would be of any benefit with the split shift as you are shifting each side separate with the split shift, I have had zero issues. the issue with the T20 shifting is both sides try to mesh at the same time and it cant, hence the EZ shift spring system.

Cleaning, bands and Kit I agree with Ascaw, do it now, do it right be done..the old saying,"never enough time or money the 1st time but always time and money for the 2nd time"

I use garage door roller spray on my chains after washing, it is like a wax after spraying. they are O-ring chains so I dont really feel I need to but it is cheap insurance

[ascaw]

I would think so especially if the teeth don't line up 100%.  It would help it drop in when they do line up.

[tman52748]

Does the EZ shift kit still have an advantage if you modify the machine for split shifting?  I'm guessing so, but just had to ask.

Thanks

[ascaw]

I replaced all my bands with the HD bands because one of my bands delaminated.  I like the new ones a lot better.  You need 4 bands, 2-right and 2 left.  They are $85 each (4 x $85).  That will be your call after you get a good look at them.  Maybe they have already been replaced but you won't know until you see them.  As far as which kit to get I would suggest getting the $99 kit as it has all the thrust washers, gaskets and o-rings.  That is what I got when I did mine.  I do not have the E-Z shift kit on my Max II but I am going to be getting them.  I know a few guys who have them and they like them (both Max II and IV).  I'm not sure about the broken bolt but I would think a good grade 8 bolt should work.  When I clean mine I put the front on car ramps, pull the plugs and pressure wash it.  Blow some compressed air through it to help dry it (or a nice warm sunny day), grease the bearings and use a good chain lube.

There are some good videos on YouTube on how to repair a T-20.  MaxRules99 videos are good.

[mrpush]

Hey things you guys for the tips and the pics.  You really add a bit of support int there!  And man is that thing clean!

All good advice.  Since I have no idea how much this has been run or if fluid was changed etc. I will tear it all down.  I have reviewed some of the links you mentioned, and see there are newer HD break bands.  Shall I just get a set of these even if mine are ok if they are that much better?

Also for that spring linkage, does it really make shifting that much better?  I read on the concept but it seem like it might not be that much of an improvement.  Have either of you tested one?

Should i get a FULL rebuild kit with all the gaskets, o-rings n such ($99), or are just the base main gaskets usually enough?

My rear left PRIMARY CHAIN (see im learning the lingo already) tension bolt is broken.  I cant seem to find a replacement part.  Are folks using something else in its place?  (Its the "T" tensioner bolt at the far rear.)

And so what cleaner and method do you all clean up the chains and the tub with?  Can I clean the chains in place with something then just re-lube or do they all need to come out for proper service? 

Just wondering how you all roll with this type of stuff.  Seems cleaning in place would be a LOT easier

Thanks for the help!

[garretttpe]

Here are a couple of pictures of how I braced  my T20 and the split shifter

[ascaw]

I agree with Garretttpe.  Drill out the broken bolts and helicoil if necessary.  If you are going to split the case you might as well go through it, clean it up and check the bands, drums and everything real good.  Replace the o-rings on the plungers and if the bands need replaced do it while you have it out.  Shifting can be hard.  You may need to rock the machine and/or play with the sticks to get the transmission to line up and engage.  You could also get an easy shift kit from 6x6parts.com.  He has them for the Max IV.  There are links to properly adjusting the T-20 transmission on this site under the "How To" section.  As far as any tips, since you have the engine and transmission out go through the tub, clean it, check all the chains, tensioners, sprockets, bearings, grease the bearings, check the frame, replace the belt if needed, check all mounts and adjusters, linkages etc.  Just give it a good once over because it is a lot easier when the engine and tranny are out.  And when you get a chance post some pictures.

 

[garretttpe]

I can't answer all your questions but I can suggest you tear down the T20 completely and get new bearings and seals for it. then you will know how the bands and drums are. now is the time to do it. I do not see any reason why you cant drill and helicoil the case. if you look at some of the members pictures lots of guys have made supports to strengthen the t20 mounting, you will have to do that for sure with a split shifter. I used angle Iron on mine, not the prettiest as others but it works great.

[mrpush]

Well I'm now a 6x6er!  I got hooked watching them on youtube.  Just too cool!

Picked up a 2000 Max IV yesterday!

It would make BIG "thuds/bangs" trying to turn it.  So I yanked the engine 18 hp.  (That's easy w a chain hoist)

The left chain tensioner at rear is broken.  Also looks like two lower left hand T20 bolts sheared off!  Yuk.  Chains look good as do sprockets so far.

So I don't have it out yet as the chains still hold it in.   Is there any other way to get chains off other than jacking off floor and turning all 6 wheels to find master links?  Will they be in or outside?

Next, the transmission was a bit hard to shift.  Like it would not easily go into reverse.  When linkages disconnected, by hand it seemed like left side is hard to get in forward.  Right side is hard to get in reverse. 

I pulled the "shifters" out the top.  Pins look ok, just some light scoring on the barrels.  The pin guides inside have some black deposits in the grooves, but looks clean other than that.

Noted slight drip leak of trans fluid feeling underside case seam.  So the seal kit will be ordered.

Questions

Will I be able to drill the sheared off bolts out and tap or coil the case holes if necessary or should I just get a new case? ($300ish I know)  Can I get half a case?

Are there some harder bolts to use so they don't fail in shear?

Next w the hard shifting, since it's out and leaking a little should I just tear it down completely to see what might be wrong inside?  What might cause hard shifting? (I'm not sure shifting easily is dependant on using the sticks at all....sorry just got it yesterday)  Maybe they are naturally harder to shift?

Can I get specs on trimming it out properly after rebuild? (How to set the break bar bolts etc)

Since it will be out any tips I need to know or performance updates to do to it now?

I'd love to split shift it, but that will be another project!  Lol.

Thanks for any pointers.

MP