6x6Talk Forum
General Category => MAX: Talk pertaining to Max ATV => Topic started by: Delduck on September 06, 2017, 07:13:14 PM
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Max was running fine, I wiped out a belt, towed it to dry land, replaced the belt, removed 1 chain, I have to move the machine foreword to get to the other master link. When I hooked up the batt I herd a clicking sound at the fuel pump. ( new 23 hp twin vanguard) went to start machine and nothing. I figured the batt was dead since I've had batt problems before. So I tried to jump it, nothing, did a batt test it showed it was good, tried jumping the selinod nothing. The motor is not seized, I replaced the key switch and the selinoid. When I tried to start it tried for about 1/2 second to turn over then I was back to square 1. Nothing no clicks not anything tried jumping selinod and nothing again. Batt is now fully charged and I'm going to try again tomorrow. I think my batt going dead is from whatever the clicking noise is, and the not starting is something else. Any ideas would be appreciated. Yes it did run before I broke the belt.
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Simple things first. Have you checked that you have a good ground.
A bad ground wire can cause some real crazy problems.
Do you have rubber engine mounts? Check the ground from the engine mount to the frame.
Sometimes the simplest things are the most overlooked.
popcorn popcorn
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I have not checked grounds but I will have both of them off and cleaned and put back on tomorrow. Thanks wipper banana
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WE HAVE A WINNER banana banana dance dance. You were right on whipper the ground from the frame to the table. Why don't they go from the batt directly to the table? And should I do that? Next when I connect the batt with the disconnect switch I hear a clicking sound under the carb. Do you think that is what has been drawling my batteries down and can you make any suggestions. I owe you one for the ground, THANK YOU
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That clicking is the fuel shut off solenoid, needs to be wired through the ignition switch.
should only have power with the key on
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Nubs thank you very much, would you happen to know the letter on the switch I could go to?
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I HATE Wiring !!!! :-[ :-[
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I don't mind the wiring, I hate putting on the belt I need a good trick for belt adjustment that's easier than lifting the table.
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Put Washer between the Engine block and the table. That is the way I have seen it done on the Max 4 's that come through My shop.
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If I'm right I need about 1/2 inch or more I'm afraid of offsetting the clutches. But I don't know. That's why I'm here, " most of you have been there and done that"
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Your Not going to Offset the Clutch if you g Stright up.
Plus you take half of what you have in belt length due to it going around the clutch.
OR you could change to a smaller belt.
What belt # you using ?
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I don't mind the wiring, I hate putting on the belt I need a good trick for belt adjustment that's easier than lifting the table.
are you using a used belt or new
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The fuel solonid kills a battery in 48 hours if hooked up direct. Factory Briggs powered max IV have 2 1/8" washers between the engine and mount frame. That is with Stock belt.
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I'm using new belts. I know ther Carlisle belts. I'm not shure of the number. But I have bought all my parts from Richard, I call mike and he says what part? They have been great. So I ordered 3 belts, the old belt I think was a bit smaller. But when I checked the belt number with the old forum I was on it was the right number, it seems like these belts are a little heavier duty. When I called this time I told mike it was a new 23 hp vanguard not the stock 18, so I assumed it took a heavier duty belt. I did change to a red spring if that means anything Dayco 0833 was the old belt
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No the spring won't change the belt deal.
So are the new belts to long or short ?
You may have just got the wrong belt ?
You want about 1" deflection on the belt
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They seem to long. Is the deflection measured when the belt is bottomed out on both pulleys
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you really have to measure center to center on the clutches, and then know what clutches you have to do the formula for figuring out the length. also the width of belt you want to use. these can take up to a 1 1/4 wide belt with the 780 and 1180 clutches. thats what i use
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you really have to measure center to center on the clutches, and then know what clutches you have to do the formula for figuring out the length. also the width of belt you want to use. these can take up to a 1 1/4 wide belt with the 780 and 1180 clutches. thats what i use
iagree iagree
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Msafi you are exactly right on the dead battery time. I'm going to take nubs advice and wire it to the switch. I think my clutch is a comet 780, I've never second guessed mike I just figured I'm doing something wrong. Not that he has sent something wrong. I'll call tomorrow and double check the numbers, its probably difficult to measure center to center and still read the tape, isn't it???
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what i done on mine to get and keep on record was to remove the drive clutch and then measure, stick the tape in the middle of the driven and to the center of the engine crank and document it , write in on the shop door , never loose it.
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Nubs thank you very much, would you happen to know the letter on the switch I could go to?
No I don't, any lug that has power only with the key on will work.
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Well I was wrong on the new belt it is a chaparral DF 41650-0 with a 1092 written on it in white magic marker, I think that number is Richards part number. Didn't measure anything yet we've been busy pulling boats out before the storm. God bless Florida. Any input on that belt would be appreciated.
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I will get you the Gates # I just put on a Max 4 I redid for a customer. It is at the shop and I will be there Saturday.
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Thanks wedge, shure wish your shop was closer.
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1092 is the aftermarket belt I use on Max IV with Briggs. Your vehicle should have a 7 wire switch and the accessories terminal is the center of the three in line. Not sure if it is new enough to have heated throttle wiring in the harness. If so and you don't have a HTC feed the red with acc power and it's within a foot of your engine at the back.
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Is the 1092 a Napa belt
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1092-M3 is Carlisle belt. Don't have dimensions available. You want the belt just tight enough to not squeal on the center hub of the drive clutch at idle. I've also used the 1049-M3 on max 4 with Briggs. It's a bit wider and I think it gives more low end as it rides high in the driven clutch.
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Low end or torque is exactly what I need. I put a picture of driving the max threw green phrag in 2 months we will be driving over it when it's brittle and brown. We're driving it now to figure out what breakdowns we will have before the busy season. If anyone has a picture of the belt on the pulleys with the right deflection, I would greatly appreciate it.